Paper wallpaper: suitable for all interiors, but not for damp environments or walls that crack a lot.
Clean the walls of the room thoroughly and smooth out any unevenness. Remove old wallpaper and water-soluble paint, preferably with water or wallpaper remover or wallpaper glue dissolved in water (approx. 1 box per 8-10 litres). Other products are not recommended, otherwise they may soak into the new surface (yellow spots). When the substrate is dry and firm, you can proceed to gluing. It is better to apply a primer on fresh plaster. You can also use wallpaper adhesive to prime the substrate, following the instructions on the adhesive.
The number of rolls of wallpaper depends on the repeat pattern (Rapport) of the paper wallpaper, which is indicated on the label. Add the pattern repeat to each adhered strip.
The correct adhesive is critical for a quality finish. If the paper wallpaper is double-layered (duplex) or if you are applying it to a non-absorbent substrate, it is better to use a thicker adhesive and apply a thin layer than the other way around. Paint both the wallpaper and the wall. Paint the wallpaper and fold the reverse side over on itself so that the adhesive soaks evenly into the entire paper wallpaper. Caution. The soaking time for paper wallpaper is 1-2 min! If the soaking time is longer than recommended, the wallpaper will stretch.
The correct adhesive is critical for a quality finish. If the paper wallpaper is double-layered (duplex) or if you are applying it to a non-absorbent substrate, it is better to use a thicker adhesive and apply a thin layer than the other way around. Paint both the wallpaper and the wall. Paint the wallpaper and fold the reverse side over on itself so that the adhesive soaks evenly into the entire paper wallpaper. Caution. The soaking time for paper wallpaper is 1-2 min! If the soaking time is longer than recommended, the wallpaper will stretch.
Gluing:
Strip length = room height + 5 cm allowance at the top and bottom for alignment. If the paper wallpapers are patterned (cutting is required), the roll is applied so that the beginning of the pattern always follows. It is better to mark the top of the paper wallpaper so that the strip of wallpaper does not turn over when glued, unless stated on the label. We do not recommend that you pre-cut your paper wallpaper to cover the whole room, as it is not possible to reclaim already cut rolls in the event of a complaint.
Stick the first strip from the window towards the door. First, mark a vertical line using a plumb bob. Stick the paper wallpapers close to each other, only in corners and problem areas can you overlap the wallpapers. Place the first strip on the wall and press it against the wall with your hands. Smooth the wallpaper from the centre to the edges to avoid air bubbles. Cut the edges of the wallpaper that overhang at the bottom with a cutter using a ruler. If possible, remove any adhesive residue immediately with a clean cloth. Turn off the electricity when gluing over sockets and switches, unscrew the cover when gluing, glue the wallpaper and then cut the hole. When gluing window recesses, allow the wallpaper to overhang and cut it off accurately when dry. Behind the radiators, you only need to put 10-15 cm of wallpaper. For ceilings, glue in pairs. If you want to separately decorate the wall with a border, mark the place on the dry wallpaper with a pencil and ruler. Use a trimmer and ruler to cut the wallpaper and then remove it. Stick the border into the cut-out area. Don't stick paper wallpaper on the wall with the window or door open, or turn off the heating - if the water dries soon, it will make bulges in the wallpaper.
